![]() Maybe it actually does say "92", but may be badly scanned at this spot, it´s hard to tell. Now the service manual says different, it looks like it says "12 (G)" or maybe "1.2 (G)", but not "92". I went a few settings up, but still got "no conductivity", which could mean the FR is broken.īut for not overloading the FR701 i decided to crack the color code on the FR701 - and thats when the rusty spots on my armor became visible, the white paint on my horse started to wear off and my allmighty weapon (my new multimeter) started to loose its allmightyness.Īccording to some frustrating websearch the FR701 should have 92.5k ohms at +-5%. So i tried to measure the FR701 for resistance, starting at lowest setting on my multimeter to avoid overload - but got no measurement exept for "1", which means no conductivity. Now this is starting to make sense, because these fusible resistors are built into circuits to prevent the circuit from damage in case of overload - and maybe short circuit, as i have provided by measuring the reel-motor wrong for amperes. Instead of putting in a fuse, they put in a fusible resistor, which basically does the same as a fuse, but doesn´t need as much space as a fuse and does not burn when overloaded. Then my attention was drawn to the "FR701", which as it turned out is a "fusible resistor". So i measured the capacitor for resistance, as due to the wisdom of the internet i know that a broken capacitor (usually) does not have any resitance but a short.Īnd then the multimeter did show a reading, no short, which should mean that C706 also is intact. This should mean that both diodes still are intact, as diodes don´t pass electricity when they are broken, as far as i know.Īs there is a capacitor, C706, being in contact with the reel-motor i also tried to measure it, but using the capacitance-setting on the multimeter didn´t produce any reading. I measured diode D706 and D707 and the multimeter did show the "forward voltage drop". and actually could make a little progress. Stubborn, erm i mean fearless as i always have been i once again opened my cursed deck to fight the evil spirits it is possessed by. ![]() Usually, you can just us a different A/C source than your preamp.Aaaaaaaaaand once again, as the fearless hero i am (but you know, there only is a thin line between fearless and stubborn), i once more put on my shiny armor (which isn´t rusty at any spot, really!) and saddled my white horse (which i actually painted white to even more look as the shiny hero) and once again went to war against the evil and perfidious mystery - electronics - to save the defenseless but fair virgin (my Akai GX 32) from malfunction, this time equipped with a new, magical and powerfull weapon being a new multimeter which also is able to measure diodes. So if you here hum, just be patient and follow the prescriptions for ridding of the dreaded ground loop. The few machines that belong in the class took the cassette tape medium to its fullest potential.Īn prospective owner should be aware that this unit may be sensitive to ground loops. A lot of its integrity comes in the transport and the metallurgy in its most salient areas. Other places can give you a much better review of the advanced technology in this machine. This will maximize the performance of any sort of tape you feed it through its adjustable features. Then I had it checked by a technician who said it was in perfect condition and required no service. I bought it used some years ago from a junk reseller. I have the same machine that was re-badged as an A&D GX-Z9100EX. I rate this cassette machine a 10 because, if you have not got the dosh, or either the access or finesse to keep a Nakamichi Dragon running — then this is the machine to have. ![]() Heads: 1 x record, 1 x playback, 1 x eraseįrequency Response: 20Hz to 21kHz (Metal tape)įrequency Response: 15Hz to 22kHz (Metal tape) Type: 3-head, single compact cassette deck ![]()
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